Always Read the Directions

9 06 2015

Before I dive in to my recap from day four, I have to share this article that my cousin sent me and this update that I found. Basically, while I sat and typed my Day 3 post on Sunday night, a teenage boy who was camping on the SAME TRAIL that Bill and I were on (Hazel Creek) was attacked by a bear, while sleeping in his hammock! (Insert jaw dropped emoticon here.) Um, SCARY! It could have just as easily been us who were attacked, I’m thanking my lucky stars and praying for a speedy recovery for him!

Day 4: Hazel Creek/Forney Creek Loop

Planned Itinerary: 12.5 miles along the Lakeshore trail to the Forney Creek trail, where we should “spend the bulk” of our day at campsite 70. (How to spend most of the day at a site that is 12.5 miles away is beyond me…)

Hazel Creek/Forney Creek Map

We woke up after a restless night, thankful we had not had an encounter with a wild animal. As we packed up camp, we planned our attack for catching up. Bill’s foot was feeling better and my body was less achy than it had been, so we were going to do our best to make it to site 70, which by my estimate, was probably about 16.5 miles away, and where we were scheduled to spend the night. I got out the map and read the narrative for the last part today’s journey, and I read ahead for tomorrow, our hike out. As I compared the map to the narrative, “Day five is only 5.5 miles…” I realized that I had made a big mistake. Five and a half miles from site 70 would NOT put us back at Clingman’s. It would put us at site 68, where, had I read the narrative more carefully, I would have told the ranger that we were spending 5 nights on the trail, not 4! Oh, and we would have packed food for a 5 night, 6 day trip rather than a 4 night, 5 day trip. Oh crap. 

We were fairly confident that we’d have enough food if we needed to stay for the 5th night, but we decided to try our best to stick to our original plan. Yeah, the plan that had us doing a 5 night hike for experienced hikers in 4 nights.

I have this problem of not reading recipes to the end before starting the recipe…Apparently, for me, that carries over into hiking as well…

The reality of being barely halfway back and only having a day and a half to do it was certainly motivation for us to finish packing up camp quickly and get on the trail.

The last four miles to get to site 76 felt long, but not painful. Today we decided that we’d stop more frequently for shorter amounts of time, rather than pushing on until we were pretty beat, taking a longer break, and then rebooting for the next part. So, we stopped at site 76, put our packs up in the bear rigs, and went down to the water for a quick snack and to refill our water. The water was cool and refreshing, and as soon as we stuck our feet in, a few fish started swimming near us. Off to our left was a small fishing boat, where two women were fishing. I presumed it was a mother-daughter pair, which I just thought was pretty cool. Fishing is not just a man’s sport!

Bill and I snacked on some GORP (trail mix) and joked about how we had no idea where we were right now, other than on the shores of Fontana Lake. What state were we in? We hadn’t a clue. (We were in North Carolina.) It didn’t matter. We were just taking in the beautiful lake in front of us, enjoying out time together outdoors. Soon the silence broke when one of the women said “Look! Snake!” Sure enough, about halfway between us and them was a snake slithering on the surface of the water. It disappeared into the marsh, so we decided (and so did the women) that it was time to go. We walked back to our packs and started hiking again.

dragon fly

Bill made a friend 😉

We came to a fork shortly after leaving camp, and we followed the path that was closest to the water. It didn’t last long, and quickly dead ended into the lake. The water was crystal clear, and the massive lake was just sprawled out in front of us, calling our names to come and swim. It was hot out, and the cool water would feel so refreshing…So, I did what any hiker would do and jumped (more like waded) in! This was the swimming hole tour after all! I dipped my head under and floated around for a few minutes before I started getting a little chilly and got out. As I put my pack back on, Bill noticed that I had a rash on my lower back. It didn’t itch, so we were pretty sure it was heat rash that had been aggravated by my pack sitting on my back. Hopefully it wouldn’t get worse!

We continued on our journey, rejuvenated by our little dip, and eventually made it to the next site, 98, where a wooden bridge crossed over a rushing stream. We laid out Bill’s poncho and did legs up a wall for some recovery while we munched on a granola bar.

feet up the wall


As we packed up, I spotted what I believed was an inchworm. I had never seen one in real life, so of course I took a video. They’re such neat creatures!

At this point, I figured we had at least 6 miles to get to the next site, and about 4 more after that if we were to make it to site 70. Yikes. It was already early afternoon at this point. We decided to get to site 74 and then evaluate when we arrived.

It was a hot afternoon, and we were both keeping up on our hydration, so somewhere on the way Bill ran out. Of course it happened to be on one of the driest sections of the trail, so when we happened upon a trickling of water a little off the trail, Bill gingerly climbed up to the source to fill up one of our liter bottles. We figured that we would soon enough come across more (we did) where we could fill up all the way.

Shortly after filling our packs, we were chatting about how tired we were and how we couldn’t imaging running right now, when off to our right about 25 yards or so, down by a stream, we saw a flash of movement and realized that we had startled two wild hogs. They ran lightning fast away from us, but judging by the curve in the trail ahead, they had just ran towards where we would be walking shortly. Bill started his barking again, and I was talking loudly. As we approached a blind turn, we heard another rustle and I saw one of the hogs barely 15 feet in front of us. I promptly turned around and started to run. Its amazing what a little adrenaline will do! I didn’t go very far, just enough to get out of the immediate area. Bill was right behind me, and we stopped to evaluate the situation. The boars had run back down the mountain, away from where we needed to walk, so we decided to continue on our journey on high alert. Bill barked (now and then, he asked me to clarify that he wasn’t barking non stop like a crazy man), I talked. That’s pretty much how it went for the majority of the next 30 minutes.

Finally, we made it to site 74. By this point it was close to 6. We sat down on the bridge and did legs up the wall again and talked about our options for the evening: We could stop and spend the night here, leaving us still 4 miles behind schedule, or we could go another 3 miles to get to site 71, leaving us only a little over a mile behind schedule. Knowing that the big river crossings would happen tomorrow, and if they were bad and we needed to reroute, adding on even more mileage, we figured it was in our best interest to continue on to site 71. As we walked on the outskirts of the camp, we noticed a few others who had set up camp for the night. We briefly asked these two college kids where they had come from, and I’m pretty sure they said they drove there. I was confused until I saw the sign indicating the trailhead was only a short hike away. It didn’t hit me until later that night, but had things been terrible, that probably would have been our out.

I was so glad that we decided to keep moving on. Maybe it was because we knew we only had 3 miles to go, but those three miles were some of the best on the trail (to us). The terrain was not challenging, so we plowed through those three miles in about an hour and 15 minutes. I don’t think that was a good gauge for our overall pace, but that’s what we can do when we’re motivated!

Camp 71 was huge, and we had the whole thing to ourselves. We made camp in plenty of time to eat before the sun set. We even were proactive and gathered fuel for our stove for tomorrow’s breakfast, just in case of rain.


We went to bed that night exhausted but proud that we had covered so much ground and were nearly caught up. Tomorrow, we hike out!

Chilkoot Trail, Day 2

2 08 2013

I awoke to a rustling sound outside of the tent.

Bill! I whispered as loudly as I could so I would wake him but not the other campers.

There’s something outside our tent. Get the flashlight!

That we needed a flashlight meant if was probably somewhere between 11pm and 3am, though again I was clueless about time. I also don’t know why I didn’t tell him to grab the bear spray, which I insisted be kept in the tent at night.


**more soft rustling**

Bill turned the flashlight on and directed it towards my pack, which was right outside our “door”. There, a small dark blob, about 2 inches long skittered across my pack. With a slight chuckle, Bill told me it was a little shrew. Phew. I was very thankful it wasn’t a bear. However, I wasn’t 100% relieved. What was in my bag that attracted the little guy? If he can smell something, I’m sure a bear could as well!

I was able to fall back asleep after a little while, but I definitely woke up several times throughout the night.

We had planned to get up around 5:15am so that we could be out of camp by 6:00am as the rangers had suggested. It was somewhere a little before 5 I think when we actually did wake up. The sun was already out and we had gone to sleep before 9pm, so we were pretty well rested and excited about today- summit day!

IMG_2282Bill started to break down camp, while I ran to the bathroom, since I had been too scared to go in the middle of the night.

On the Chilkoot, there are outhouses at the campsites.

IMG_2285On the US side, the outhouses are stocked with toilet paper (wahoo!) and wood chips. Without going into too much detail, campers are asked to throw down wood chips when they’re done, because the waste is composted. I’m not quite sure how the uh “fertilizer” is retrieved, but I know at some sites a helicopter flies in…

Anyhow, we broke down camp and headed to the food area for our breakfast of bagels and nut butter (for me) or cheese (for Bill).

IMG_2286Mini maple cinnamon bagels-yum!


The bandana crew 🙂

And, we’re off! Summit, here we come!




The area between Sheep Camp and the Summit was actually the danger zone for avalanches.


You could tell when you had arrived in an area that had once been destroyed by an avalanche. The surroundings changed from this:


to this:


It was NOT recommended to stop and hang around on these sections of the trail. Though the avalanche warning had been lifted, anything could still happen. The sun was shining brightly and the snow was melting- we didn’t want to be around if just the right patch of snow/ice decided to break off.


As we got higher up the mountain, we started to see some of the pieces of history left behind from the gold rush.

IMG_2304And of course, some absolutely stunning views.





As we gained elevation, the hike definitely became more challenging. There were a lot more rocks that we were climbing up and over, and we came to our first “snow bridge”.  It’s been awhile since I’ve seen snow, so I was kind of excited when I saw it. I was certainly singing a different tune when I saw snow later in the day…


We also encountered our first real water crossing.


I bounced from stone to stone, trying to avoid as much of the water as possible. Though my shoes claimed to be waterproof, I’m smart enough to know that they’re only waterproof to a point. I didn’t want to march right through the water just yet, I’d try to keep them as dry as possible for as long as possible.

This part of the trail definitely had some of the best views.



We encountered more snow bridges and more rock climbing- more than once I asked, “Are we on the golden staircase yet?”

IMG_2331We found our way through the snow and rocks, thanks to handy trail markers, like these rock formations:


IMG_2338It was crazy to look back and see how far we’ve come- and to know that we weren’t even at the top yet!


If you’re able to zoom in on the picture above, you can see other hikers a little below center, on the left hand side.

We looked ahead and finally spotted what we were assuming was the Golden Staircase. The Golden Staircase was the nickname for the part of the trail leading up to the summit. If the stampeders could just make it over this nearly 45° incline and to the other side, they would be on their way to the gold!


See the trail markers in the foreground? Life savers!

We still had quite a ways to go, so we kept trucking along.

We finally arrived at “The Scales,” a place where the stampeders would reweigh their loads- they were required to carry 2000 pounds over the pass- before they could head over the summit. Here many gold hopefuls discarded much of their equipment and turned back, discouraged by the treachery of the trail.



We spotted a friendly little marmot exploring the goods.


We looked ahead, knowing that the staircase wasn’t so far off anymore. There’s actually a person on the staircase on the picture below.


We crossed another snow bridge and we were at the base of the staircase. Gulp. This was no joke. I was going to be doing some rock climbing- which I’ve never done in my life! Bill is quite experienced when it comes to rock climbing, so he told me the basic rule- don’t move a hand or a foot until the other three are firmly planted. Make sure to get a positive handhold before moving to the next one.

I looked back one more time at how far we’d come. The group we’d passed at the river crossing was still pretty far behind. I’ve gotten this far, now I just need to get up to the top!


(looking back, you can see other hikers)

I slowly but surely started to move up the mountain, but I was scared as heck. I began breathing heavy and tried to hold back my tears. What if I fall backwards? What if I can’t find another good hand hold? Where do I go next?

I began to doubt myself.

Bill positioned himself behind me, so that he could help me in any way possible. He stopped me, and calmly asked if I was breathing hard because I was scared or because I was winded. Definitely scared. He reassured me that everything was going to be just fine; that he was there to help me and that I was draining myself of energy by getting anxious.

People who we had passed on the trail earlier had made it to the golden staircase and were easily making their way up, past us, and on to the top.

If they can do it…

Finally, I’m not quite sure how, I made it to the top.



The view was incredible! We were SO LUCKY to get a clear day!


People we met along the trail who had hiked it before said that they never knew this sign was up at the top! It had always been too foggy for them to see!

We didn’t hang out for too long because it was starting to get windy and chilly. We also knew that we were only half way- the descent can often be worse than the climb, and we weren’t sure what to expect from the descent.

IMG_2363We were welcomed into Canada with a snow covered trail. It was windy and the sun had hidden behind some clouds, so we crossed it quickly and made it to the warming station to refuel and warm up.

IMG_2366We filled our bellies with more bagels and cheese as well as some trail mix and gummy bears- gummy bears were an AWESOME idea- before hitting the trail again.

We were just asking ourselves if we had missed the big saw blade we saw in so many pictures from the trail when we discovered it right under our noses!


We also got a fabulous picture with Crater Lake in the background:


Then, things started to get a little sketchy. The mountain was still snow covered (actually only 40%, but it was definitely enough) along the trail and it was a little icy. I wish I had taken a photo, but the trail ahead was a snow bridge, at least 100 yards long, and it was along the side of the mountain. There was snow to my right, all the way up the side of the mountain. There was snow to my left, down the mountain, for about 40 feet or so, before it had melted away and large rocks showed. Beyond the rocks was a long way down to the lake. Believe me, you did NOT want to fall down. Bill had been wearing his Luna sandals for the entire trail so far, but this patch of trail was too dangerous (and cold) for his sandals. He switched into his Merrels, and followed behind me, lightly holding onto my pack in case I were to fall. We worked together, slowly making our way across the icy trail. I was trying to dig my heel in first to make a “step” but unfortunately my shoes were not doing a good job. Instead, I put my foot down, and then, moving my foot back and forth, I used the side of my shoe to make a step. I had my trekking pole in my left hand, the side closest to the drop, and my right hand was free so that I could lean towards the mountain and try to grab the snow if I needed to.

We hadn’t gone very far when another couple that had been in the warming station with us passed by. They had proper footwear and a set of trekking poles each. They offered their poles to us, but we declined; I think it was more that we needed foot traction rather than poles. They did however, say they’d make steps with their feet for us to follow behind.

Though we were still moving slowly and cautiously, we followed in their footsteps and that helped a lot. I think at this point I started saying that I would rather be doing a half ironman than what were were currently doing! Bill asked me if I was still happy to see snow. I was too focused to laugh so I snapped, “no.”

Finally, we made it to the end of the snow bridge (for now).

We were out of water, so we stopped at the lake to get some.

IMG_2376I sat behind a rock to block the wind while Bill ran to the chilly water to fill up. When he got back, we looked up and realized that we probably hadn’t chosen the safest place to fill up. It certainly looked like prime avalanche territory.


So, we put our camelbaks away and got back to the trail.

The next section of the trail included water crossings. A LOT of water crossings. And more snow. ARGH!



The water crossings became so frequent and in a lot of cases, it was probably more dangerous to try and hop from rock to rock to avoid getting wet, that eventually I just started to walk through them with Bill. When the water was running pretty hard, we held hands and walked across together. The water was never higher than my ankles, but my shoes definitely got wet. The water went over the sides and seeped into my socks. Awesome.

We stopped for a snack in a safer spot, and I changed socks while Bill warmed up his feet (he had put his sandals back on!).

IMG_2387My shoes were soaked, inside and out, and I really didn’t want to put my freshly dried and warm feet into my shoes. So, Bill busted out his “ultra-light dry sock kit” aka baby powder and plastic bags.

IMG_2388It actually worked pretty well! Unfortunately, one of the bags had a hole in it, so eventually water seeped in, but my feet stayed pretty dry for the rest of the day, even after more water crossings!


We were so relieved when we reached Happy Camp (mile 20.5). It was a little windy still, but now that we were at a little lower elevation, it was a bit warmer. We went to the warming hut to rest and refuel, where we met two couples. We chatted with them for a little while, and they told us it was only 2pm (I don’t remember if it was 2 Alaska time, or 2 Yukon time though). We had initially planned on staying there for the night, but since it was so early and the sun was shining, Bill and I decided to head on to Deep Lake, the camp at mile 23. Staying at Happy Camp would have left us with an 8.5 mile hike on Day 3. Moving on to Deep Lake would make Day 3 a bit easier- only a 6 mile hike.

So after spending a good 45 minutes or so in the warming hut, we packed up and headed out. We weren’t sure if anyone else had headed out or if most of the hikers would stay at Happy Camp. Regardless, we had a 2.5 mile hike to go.



The first part of the trail, right out of camp, was a little tricky. The path was narrow and rocky, and if you fell, you would tumble 6-10 feet into the sparkling blue lake that was probably FREEZING. The trail widened some, and it grew a little less rocky. Remember how I felt the last 2.5 miles on day 1? That’s exactly how I felt for these last 2.5 miles. When would we reach camp? These were the longest 2.5 miles ever. Bill and I were both getting tired, our feet hurt, and I was starting to get grumpy. Bill tried to be funny at one point, and I wasn’t having it. I was so over walking; I just wanted to sit down at camp!

Finally, we saw the sign:

IMG_2404Just over the bridge was camp! We finally made it!

We were the first ones in camp, and as we were setting up, we wondered if we were going to be the only ones there for the night. I was kind of scared about being the only ones there all night, but about an hour or so after we had arrived, a family of three arrived. I (internally) breathed a sigh of relief and went to fetch some water for dinner.

On the menu for tonight: Chicken Tortilla Soup!


The soup was definitely yummy, but it uh, stayed with us all night if you know what I’m saying…

Anyhow, as we were wrapping up our dinner, the family joined us in the eating area for their meal. We ended up chatting with them for quite awhile- Julie, Jared and son Trevor were from Juneau, and Julie and Jared had hiked the trail several times before. It was Trevor’s first time (he’s headed into 8th grade) and we enjoyed sharing stories from the trail so far with each other. By the time we had finished eating, it was starting to get chilly, so we headed back to our tent to change and get ready for bed. It was still light out, but we were beat! What an exhausting but rewarding day! It was crazy to think of how far we’d come today, physically, mentally and emotionally.  I put on my eye mask and curled into my sleeping bag. I was SO ready for an “easy” day tomorrow!

A Little Mix Up

26 07 2013

IMG_2171I could easily start this post with my first full day in Alaska, our first day on the trail. However, I would be leaving out an important detail about the trip.

So, if you watched our video about the gear we were bringing, Bill mentioned our tent was the Henry Shires Moment DW. A little confession: we had ordered the tent a few weeks prior to the trip and due to backorders, it actually arrived on the Friday before I left. Bill was already in Alaska, so I was just going to bring it. I honestly had no idea how to set it up and I didn’t want the kitties to put claw holes in it, so I left it in its bag and brought it as is. When I arrived on Tuesday evening, Bill opened up the tent to  set it up (I know, I know, it’s NOT a good idea to go into a hike with gear you haven’t actually tried out before).

“Uh Steph, I don’t think this is the tent we ordered.”

“Huh? No way, let’s look at the instructions.”

Sure enough, the tent was the Squall 2- a tent that required a trekking pole to set up, which was exactly the reason Bill hadn’t ordered it in the first place…

We both looked at each other with an “oh crap” look on our faces. At somewhere after 11pm, and a flight to Skagway scheduled for 8:45 am, our options were clearly limited. Ever the problem solver, Bill immediately started to toss out ideas for how we might get by.

Option A: Buy a tarp at the hardware store and some extra lines at the mountain shop in Skagway and make a tarp tent. This would probably be the cheapest option, but the biggest downfall was that neither of us had practice setting up a tarp tent and if it was buggy, we had no insect shield.

Option B: Rent a tent from the mountain shop in Skagway and send back the Squall asap. This would probably cost a little more than the tarp tent, but it would probably be a lot more weight than we were expecting to carry.

Option C: Purchase a set of trekking poles and go with the Squall. Trekking poles can be expensive, and we hadn’t really planned on needing them, so this was definitely our last option.

We went to bed mulling over the options, and hoped it would all workout tomorrow.